| Nikita- I totally agree- Orandas shouldn't be mixed with any fish besides other goldfish. I disagree with the following - "Tropicals and goldfish should never be placed together because of their differing water and temperature requirements. " Golds tolerate - without stress - a wide latitude of temperature ranges and a formidible range of pH. The problem I find with Golds is dealing with some breeding manifistations leading to aggressiveness and/or natural territorial issues. YOur comment "why add a fish that will grow quite large and creates an exorbitant amount of its own waste just to remove a few small snails that could be picked off by hand? If you have orandas in a large tank or pond and correspondingly you have no snails, good for you. If you have snails and add fish simply to eliminate them when other methods would suffice - without placing a fish in a potentially poor situation - that's not so good." Since the kind of snail was not identified - I took the example of the min. black snails - and obviously they need more then some picking off. that is why I laid out a 3 part comprehensive plan to deal with the assumed black snail - the sun jar, etc - black snails can be a pain in the *** if you do not have residents that care to use them as a appetizer.... I was not recommending that the fish be solely added to control the snails - -0 the comprehensive plan dealt with the idea of deliberating the idea to shift toward aquapuppies more suited to eliminating snails as an issue and using the two other techniques suggested to erradicate them and maintain their vacancy from the tank. The reason I find Mystery snails so great is their egg laying out of the water - allowing control of the hatch. The only side issue is making sure the tank has an adequate cover in that they will travel out of the tank confines to lay if allowed. The only drawback to Mystery combined with Goldies; combining both at the Golds young age is preferrable than trying to place together an older gold - as many times I have found the older - "set in their ways " so to speak - and will devouer whatever portion of the snail that is soft and exposed - either because of territorial issues, whatever - "The sun method is interesting; I'll have to try it out. Probaby best to start with plants hardy in warm water first...and to monitor the temperature with a thermometer. I use a kitchen thermometer when taking readings of temperature in my windowsill plants - it reads higher than a typical aquarium thermometer." Thank you for saying so. In terms of monitoring temp - I believe you will find that will not be an issue - the 110 degrees has shown no negative effect on the fauna I have in process - but the lid does have to be screwed on to create the high air temp at the top of the watert - -0 the black snails will either drop to the bottom or will try to climb out of the top - the eggs are cooked before 110 - I found this very convenient in that I have yet to find a plant outlet with "clean" plants - "And I also agree with the mystery snails - they aren't the best for algae but they do not multiply in a typical aquarium setting, they have relatively long life spans, and they're very interesting to watch. Gold mystery snails fall under this category too. Make sure to feed them because they cannot survive simply by scavenging; they get nutrient-deficient. " This qoute is something that I cannot drill enough - into the heads of people for whom I set up tanks for - you hit it on the head - especially with Golds.... Golds- in general - are equipted with the highest power Hover Vacs - when they activate their suction - it is like a whirlwind- they clean up all the leftovers - although I have been able to circumvent some of that by double layering 1/2 inch stone - allowing deep enough cravases where the snails can stretch and penetrate to retrive - but out of reach of the Hover Vacs LOL - You are quite correct -0 they require some supplementation.
You said - "they aren't the best for algae " - as in my case I prefer them not to be - as I allow the accumulation of green algae on the back side of all my tanks - IN the case of my goldies only tanks - this is a perfect situation- they actively refer to it when they have a desire to snack, it provides numerous micronutrients, keeps their systems "regular (I swear Golds are born and breed with consitpation on the brain - especially for those new to ways to properly feed etc the species), provides a nice backdrop, etc.... To many people fight Algae. By maintaining high quality water conditions (as you inferred in your earlier comment - Golds must somehow generate and expell more waste then they eat -LOL) and using the algae as a monitor of water conditions - speed of growth, color change etc - becomes a observation specialty developed over time - but removes the need for chasing around the "water quality ghost" with testing gear- which many times is highly innaccurate and unreliable - because of expiration date - quality of test solution, etc - I am sure you were in that phase - as was I - at one time..... Eric
Eric
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